Author: chicstranger

From Campus to Enterprise ‘The Accessory Stand’

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mustache double finger ring

Here is an article that was published in the Leeds Student

Establishing your own accessories brand during the final year of your degree would seem a stretch for most students. However, University of Leeds Arts and Design student Eleanor Pead decided to become her own boss in late 2011, setting up ‘The Accessory Stand’. Drawing on her previous experience in the fashion industry working at brands such as Whistles and L.K.Bennett, Eleanor witnessed first-hand customers’ tastes in accessories and her brand has now become a hit with style savvy shoppers.  Attending trade shows, choosing wholesalers and designing accessories is the new routine for Eleanor. Her own personal style is inspiration when creating items: ‘I am my customer’, she comments.

Offering a wide selection of cute hand-made accessories, the must-have items include the double finger crucifix ring and the pastel skull ring, that is perfect for this season’s pastels trend.

The Accessory Stand’s student-friendly prices range from £1 to £5, so if you are searching for a special item to glam up your winter outfit, be sure to check out the Accessory Stand.

Available to purchase at http://theaccessorystand.com

Read this article on the Leeds Student at http://www.leedsstudent.org/2012-02-18/ls2/fashion/from-campus-to-enterprise-the-accessory-stand

 vintage camera ring

 

NYFW: Autumn/Winter Trend Report

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Here is an article that was published in the Leeds Student.

Kicking off the first entry of our series of A/W trend reports, Babette Radclyffe-Thomas shows us the sartorial ropes based on the collections of New York Fashion Week. 

New York Fashion Week kicked off the autumn winter collections with glamour, drama and controversy. With a hectic schedule spanning eight days, featuring over ninety shows at the Lincoln Center and 250 shows in locations outside of the city, some of the world’s most talented and distinguished designers revealed their Autumn/Winter 2012-13 collections to an eagerly awaiting audience.

The celebrity-filled front rows receive as much attention as the catwalks and this week didn’t disappoint. Jessica Alba, Anna Wintour and Mick Jagger were all spotted and 95-year old legendary New York fashionista Zelda Kaplan died after passing out on the front row.

In the most talked about show of the week, Marc Jacobs models swanked down the catwalk in oversized ‘mad hatter’ style hats, wrapped in huge shawls held together with large safety pins. Jacob’s has come under fire for using 14-year-old models in his show, breaking the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) regulations regarding the use of  underage models.

Surprisingly, models strolled down the Victoria Beckham catwalk wearing sturdy biker boots in replace of her trademark towering heels, with many designers also abandoning the heel in favour of practical flats. Victoria’s military-style collection featured her signature figure-hugging dresses and even showcased her new gorgeous ‘Harper’ handbag named after her adorable baby girl.

Oriental designs graced many catwalks this fashion week.  Josie Natori turned to Mongolia as her obi belts, kimono tops and glamorous evening-wear reiterated her mark as a ready-to-wear designer. Jason Wu’s luxurious collection looked to China with sophisticated tailoring and Oriental-style detailing for stylish urban chic.

Leather and luxurious details are a key autumn/winter 2012 trend and Alexander Wang’s leather boots matched with shiny oversized knits were an edgy youthful take on the trend. Catwalks everywhere displayed longer hemlines reflecting a 1960s and 1970s influence as shown by Derek Lam’s doily-print dresses matched with smoky eyes.

Michael Kors’ chunky knits and tweed coats showed how to remain stylish next winter, while Marchesa’s voluminous lace dresses provided elegant evening wear. Berry colours in rich luxurious fabrics are must-have for next season, and as the exhilarating New York Fashion Week draws to an extremely apt finale with Ralph Lauren’s British heritage collection, London Fashion Week is sure to be just as exciting and glamorous.

To see the article on the Leeds Student check out: http://www.leedsstudent.org/2012-02-18/ls2/fashion/nyfw-autumnwinter-trend-report

新年快乐! Happy new year!

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Happy new year of the dragon! 龙年快乐！

‘Power in China was vested in the Dragon Throne and the emperor wore robes with dragons emblazoned upon them’ (Rutherford & Menzies 2004: 59).  Dragons represented masculine vigour and fertility and was ‘often pictured chasing the pearl of wisdom, demonstrating ‘the emperor’s search for the divine truth…to the benefit of the empire’ (Garrett 1998: 51). 

Emperor’s yellow longpao dragon robe. Qianlong period (1736-95). 

To celebrate the new year of the dragon, dragons are appearing in numerous collections from diamond watches to evening dresses this Spring. 为庆祝新龙年，在许多的时装系列，从钻石的手表到奢侈的连衣裙，这春天龙发现了。

 

 

A stunning collection of diamond-encrusted stylish Piaget watches。非常漂亮的 伯爵钻石手表.

 

Signature bold prints at Versace with the dragon dress and  handbag. 这龙连衣裙和手包是Versace的著名大五色的图案的趋势。

Start your mornings in style with this Nespresso dragon collection。开始每天很髦的和这个Nespresso龙系列。

Practicality without losing glamour – Converse Chinese New year collection。 实用和奢侈的 – Converse龙年新系列。

 

Gold dragons decorate the lavish interiors of the auspicious $1.2 million Rolls-Royce Dragon Phantom Model. 

金色的龙修罗尔斯•罗伊斯龙型奢侈的内边，这个很吉祥的车费1。2亿美元。

Piaget 伯爵 – http://www.piaget.com/

Versace – http://www.versace.com/

Converse – http://www.converse.co.uk

Nespresso- http://www.nespresso.com

Rolls-Royce 罗尔斯•罗伊斯 – http://www.rolls-royce.com/

Fashion in Motion: Olivier Saillard

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London fashionistas gathered to watch the highly anticipated ‘Models at Work’ a performance created by Olivier Saillard on Friday night. The Raphael Gallery at the V&A was a fitting dramatic location for the show as the Old Masters gazed down upon the runway and packed audience. Paris-based museum director, curator and performer Olivier Saillard worked with five renowned French models to explore the development of the poses of the fashion model. Saillard commented on his usage of famous 1980s & 1990s models that ‘modern models are really strict, like hangers’ and he wanted to show how models in the 80s had attitude. 

Separated into five sections, the audience was treated to the opening of models wearing black sheaths mirroring the protective sheaths used in early 20th century fashion houses, which was quickly followed by models playing with the manifold uses of the white tunic, whose pattern reflected those worn by fashion houses in-house models. Dressed solely in black bodysuits the models mimed elegantly the actions of dressing and undressing for the third section and the fourth section joyfully explored fashion designers’s uses of calico in the design process as models ripped and reshaped calico forming new garments. 

The climax of the show showcased inventive and delicate black tulle garments designed by Christian Lacroix. Lacroix looked to the silhouettes of outfits by designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Jean Paul Gaultier and Claude Montana for his inspiration. Not only featuring a selection o the world’s top fashion designers and models, Fashion in Motion at the V&A also involves a wide audience in the exciting and captivating catwalk experience. 

在星期五时伦敦时装迷一起看Olivier Saillard的非常期待的‘模特工作中’的表演。拉斐尔的美术馆完美举办了这个表演，在下面的老马斯特斯的画一个拥挤的观众看到T台。巴黎人Olivier Saillard在博物管经理，馆长和表演工作。他和5个著名法国模特一起工作，为了表示时装模特的姿势发展。Saillard用80年代90年代的模特，他说‘今天的模特太严格，他们象衣架一样’， 他要表示80年代的模特的特征风格。

T台表示分开5个部分，最早的时候观众看到模特穿黑色的衣服，和早20世纪的时装家的保护衣服。此后模特表示白色的无袖上衣很有用，无袖上衣的样式和时装家内的模特穿的衣服。后来模特只穿黑色的紧身衣，他们很秀的模仿穿和脱衣服的运动。接下来的四个部分表示时装设计者怎么用 印花布时，模特撕印花布和创新的衣服。

最后，模特穿创造的和易碎的黑色蒂勒的衣服。拉克鲁瓦创造那些衣服，其他的设计者衣服的背影鼓舞他。伊夫·圣·洛朗,让· 保罗· 高提耶和蒙塔纳都鼓舞他。不仅表示一些世界最著名的时装设计者，‘Fashion in Motion’ 在维多利亚和阿尔伯特博物馆也包含一个大观众在一个非常兴奋的和迷住的T台的经历。

 

 

 

 

 

‘The body of fashion is not clothes, it is the body of the woman’ Olivier Saillard ‘时装的身体不是衣服，是女人的身体’

 

 

‘No more clothes, just be yourself’ Olivier Saillard ‘还不用衣服，只要be yourself’

 

 

 

 

 

 

Try to escape the ‘timeless tyranny of the present’ 。试逃走‘目前的无时间的虐政’

 

Fashion in Film: Out of Africa (1985) ~ 时尚的电影：走出非洲 （1985年）

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Starring Meryl Streep playing Karen Blixen, and her love interest Robert Redford as Denys Finch Hatton, the highly acclaimed film ‘Out of Africa’ (1985) is a tale of romance and hardship set in stunning African landscapes. Based upon the autobiographical book written by Isak Dineson (Karen Blixen’s pen name), the story begins in 1913 Denmark and covers Karen’s love affairs in and with Africa. Collecting 28 film awards including 7 Academy Awards and a nomination for Costume Design, ‘Out of Africa’ is a moving tale of the powerful bond between one woman and Africa and her thirst for adventure.

走出非洲受到了赞扬,在这里梅丽尔·斯特里普扮演凯伦·布李讯的角色和她的爱人是罗伯特·红副特的角色丹尼斯·芬奇·哈特呢。这是一个在漂亮的非洲环境的爱情和苦难的故事。基本于凯论的笔名艾萨克·迪泥丝呢写的自传，这个故事在丹麦开始而针对凯论在非洲爱情的经验。这部电影获得28电影将，包括7个奥斯卡将和时装设计的提名。走出非洲是一个非常感动的故事，一个女人和非洲亲密的关系而她对冒险的渴望。

Repeatedly in fashion every spring/summer, safari style lets the urban girl reveal her inner adventurous spirit à la Karen Blixen. This trend’s key colours are olive, gold, khaki and white and staple items are jodhpurs, crisp white shirts and safari jackets.

每个春/夏的时装收集有游猎的形式。这会给城市的女人一个机会能透露内心的冒险的精神，根凯论布李讯一样。这个趋势的基本颜色包括橄榄色，金色，褐色和白色。基本的衣服是马裤，新的白色衬衫和游猎的夹克。

 

 

Catwalk photos are Ralph Lauren Spring/Summer 2009 from Style.com http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/S2009RTW-RLAUREN 猫步的照片是拉尔夫劳伦2009年春/夏。从Style.com 

Riding boots from Ralph Lauren available online now at http://www.ralphlauren.co.uk/product/index.jsp?productId=4999751&prodFindSrc=search 马鞋是拉尔夫劳伦，目前在网络上会买。

Monthly Muse: Eve Arnold ~ 每月的灵感的源泉：伊夫·阿诺德

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Eve Arnold (1912-2012) was an American photojournalist who captured a wide array of iconic images, from intimate onset photos of Marilyn Monroe to horse trainers on the plains of Mongolia. Starting her career in the 1940s working at renown publications such as Time and Life magazine, Arnold was the first woman to be admitted to the Magnum agency. She photographed stars like Jacqueline Kennedy, Joan Crawford and Dirk Bogarde, traveled worldwide and created a stunning array of photos of 21st century icons. In 2003 the Queen gave Arnold an OBE for her services to photography, and common themes Arnold refers to are poverty, birth, politics and women.

伊夫·阿诺德是美国的摄影记者，她照相各种各样的著名的照片，从在摄影场里边给玛丽莲·梦露拍照，到在蒙古的高原给驯马师拍照。在20世纪40年代时她开始工作在很著名的出版物，比如说她在Time(时候）杂志和Life (生活）杂志工作了。伊夫·阿诺德是第一个女人被准许加入Magnum社。她给明星拍照，比如说，杰奎琳·肯尼迪,克劳馥和包加得。她在全世界旅行和她创造大量的20世界明星的漂亮的照片。因为她很长的时间在摄影行业工作，在2003女忘给她英帝国勋章奖。她的照片都有普遍的主题；贫穷，生育，政治和女人。

 

 

‘If you’re careful with people and if you respect their privacy, they will offer part of themselves that you can use’ 

‘如果你对人小心，而且你尊敬他们的阴私，他们将给你他们自己的部分, 那唯一你会用’

Arnold told the BBC in 2002。伊夫·阿诺德在2002的英国广播公司采访时告诉记者。

One of the first American photographers to work in China, Arnold visited China in the late 1970s just as China was opening up to the West. On assignment for The Sunday Times, despite feeling extremely ill with bronchitis, Arnold captured this stunning photo of an elderly woman in a doorway. 

伊夫·阿诺德是的一个美国摄影记者去中国工作当中，她在20世纪70现代晚年去中国，这时中国开始对东方开发。她做周日泰晤士报执行任务，尽管她生病了，她给那个老女人站在门里面照片。

Fashion Visionaries Exhibition, Hong Kong ~ 在香港时装视野的展览

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The Hong Kong Heritage Museum is currently hosting the ‘Fashion Visionaries’ exhibition showcasing local Hong Kong fashion designers, illustrators, photographers and art directors. From futuristic designs to extravagant concert costumes, this exhibition is a must-see for anyone interested in the future of Hong Kong as a fashion hub. Open until March 2012.

现在香港文化博物馆举办着时装视野的展览会。这个展览会让人们展示香港的设计师、美术及形象指导、绘图设计师和摄影师。从很现代的设计风格到奢侈的音乐会的衣服，如果你对香港的时装有兴趣你必须去看这个展览。在2012年三月之前你会看这个展览。

http://www.heritagemuseum.gov.hk/eng/exhibitions/exhibition_details.aspx?exid=173

How To Walk in Heels – 怎样走穿高跟鞋

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Knitwear designer Tiphaine De Lussy Interview (The Outnet) ~ 一个针织品设计者叫Tiphaine De Lussy的采访

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Ultra stylish knitwear designer Tiphaine De Lussy talks to ‘The Outnet’ as part of their ‘Chic Chat’ series. Tiphaine talks prints, wearing bespoke McQueen at her wedding to Dinos Chapman, studying with Sam Taylor Wood and her magpie way of choosing clothes.

Tiphaine De Lussy 是一个很时髦的针织品设计者，她对‘The Outnet’说话因为是‘Outnet’的’Chic Chat’一系列。Tiphaine说着印花布，她和英国画家‘Dinos Chapman’结婚的时候她穿着订做的亚历山大·麦昆。她在大学的时候她跟英国画家Sam Taylor Wood一起学习和她选择衣服象一个喜鹊一样。

 

‘Buffalo Beijing: Translation’ Art Exhibition Opening ~ ‘水牛城和北京：翻译’ 艺术展览开业

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Artists, sinophiles and professors gathered on Friday evening to celebrate the opening of the ‘Buffalo Beijing: Translation’ art exhibition. This pop-up gallery showcases the results of a  cross-cultural collaboration between students at the University at Buffalo Visual Studies department and students from the Central Academy of Fine Arts (CAFA) in Beijing. As part of the New York Conference on Asian Studies at UB, this thought-provoking eclectic exhibition examines topics such as the urban wastelands of Buffalo and Beijing and the cycle of  inspiration and expiration. 

在星期五晚上的时候，画家，亲中者和老师都庆祝‘北京和水牛：翻译’艺术展览开业。这个美术馆表示中国和美国大学生合作，美国学生是水牛城大学视觉系的学生和中国学生是中央美术学院的学生。这个展览是纽约的亚洲研究的会议一部分。这个展览很耐人寻味，有些艺术表示北京和水牛城城市荒地的话题，有些艺术表示雅兴和呼气循环。

‘Legend’ by Ji Yucheng,  Timothy Scaffidi and Ellen Rogers. Wire animals representing Chinese and American identity were projected onto a blank screen.

‘传奇’是Ji Yucheng, Timothy Scaffidi 和 Ellen Rogers 的艺术作品。他们制造金属丝的动物，这些动物表示中国和美国的特性。然后，动物被投影在屏幕上。

 

This piece of video art by Alice Alexandrescu, Shasti O’Leary Soudant and Yu Faye Faye entitled ‘Ception’ examined the topic of contraction and expulsion by showing various pairs of hands squeezing sponges oozing with vibrant coloured liquids. 

Alice Alexandresu, Shasti O’Leary Soudant 和 Yu Faye Faye制造一个电影艺术作品叫‘Ception’。这作品为了检查收缩和逐出的话题，这作品表示很多手有着海绵擦，在海绵擦 里有着很亮颜色的液体。

Christopher Fox and Liu Ling Zi examined the similarities between Buffalo and Beijing in particular the urban wastelands in this documentary entitled ‘I Seek’. Over a fortnight the artists approached people in Beijing asking what it is that they were searching for, and filmed their replies as the interviewee  held the sign ‘I seek’. The artists commented ‘Some of the answers, especially from the elders, were shocking. They had never considered the question before, as if no one had ever asked them. Many of them would not answer. Some of them could not answer’. 

Christopher Fox和Liu Ling Zi 表示北京和水牛城的相似，尤其是城市荒地。他们制造一个纪录片叫‘我找’。在两个星期里，画家问很多的北京人一个问题 – ‘你找什么？’ 。画家拍摄他们的回答，人在手里有着一个指示牌，在指示牌上有一些汉字‘我找’。画家说‘有些回答很感动，尤其老人的回答。他们未来考虑这个问题，这象人还不问他们这样的问题一样。很多人不愿意回答，有些人不能回答‘。